Hong Kong’s culinary landscape has reached a new level of sophistication with the opening of Roucou, the city’s first restaurant dedicated to a “Cheese Omakase” concept. Located in the heart of Central, the establishment invites diners on an educational and sensory journey curated by renowned cheese expert Jeremy Evrard. By transforming ten distinct globally sourced cheeses into a multi-course tasting menu, Roucou seeks to elevate cheese from a mere appetizer to the focal point of fine dining.
A Curated Journey Through Rare Varietals
While the world hosts over 1,800 varieties of cheese, most consumers are only familiar with a handful of commercial staples. Jeremy Evrard bridges this gap by highlighting heritage selections from France, Italy, and even Japan. The menu showcases the impact of maturation, such as the Brillat-Savarin, a triple-cream Normandy classic. A three-week aged version provides a light, lactic tang paired with caviar, while the three-month aged iteration—boasting 75% fat content—is transformed into a decadent foam served over fresh crab and tropical fruit.
The selection also pays homage to historic “AOP” (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) varieties:
- Chabichou: An 8th-century goat cheese paired with Tai sashimi and citrus soy to balance its distinct musk.
- Parmigiano Reggiano: Known as the “King of Cheeses,” this 24-month aged specimen is served in delicate tuiles with asparagus and herring.
- Beaufort D’Alpage: A “Golden Cheese” from the Alps, traditionally used in fondue, here accompanying a seafood bisque and sea urchin.
Innovative Fusion and Northern Rarities
The menu pushes boundaries by incorporating modern techniques and unexpected origins. The Crayeux de Roncq, a square-shaped washed-rind cheese from Northern France, undergoes a unique maturation process where it is regularly brushed with beer and brine. Its pungent, spirits-laced aroma provides a bold counterpoint to charcoal-grilled Omi Wagyu beef.
Perhaps the most surprising inclusion is the Japanese Brown Cheese. This “rising star” represents Japan’s burgeoning artisanal dairy scene, offering a toasted, nutty profile. In the final course, it is shaved generously over 55% Ecuadorian chocolate and hazelnut, proving that cheese can navigate the delicate transition into dessert.
Expert Insights for the Modern Palate
Navigating such a vast world requires an understanding of texture and aging. Experts at Roucou emphasize that the rind is often as vital as the paste; for instance, the white mold on Camembert provides a mushroom-like earthiness that complements oily fish like fatty tuna (Toro). Diners are encouraged to notice how semi-hard cheeses like Salat change character—starting with a slight acidity and finishing with notes of roasted almond.
For those looking to explore artisanal cheese beyond the restaurant setting, experts suggest focusing on “Best in Class” representatives: Roquefort “Le Vieux Berger” remains the gold standard for sheep’s milk blues, ideally balanced by the sweetness of sourdough or dried fruits.
Impact on Hong Kong’s Dining Culture
The arrival of a dedicated cheese omakase marks a shift in how local gourmands view dairy. By treating cheese with the same reverence as premium sashimi or wagyu, Roucou provides a platform for education on agricultural heritage and fermentation science. This immersive approach allows diners to move beyond processed slices and experience the complex, terroir-driven flavors that have defined European culinary history for centuries.
Visit Roucou:
G/F, 28 Aberdeen Street, Central
(8-minute walk from Sheung Wan MTR Exit A2)