A new dining destination, Kuke Shokudo (玖鉞食堂), has officially debuted on Gough Street in Central, Hong Kong, promising an authentic Oden Izakaya experience rooted in the culinary traditions of Japan’s Kansai region. Helmed by Chef Eto San, a Japanese master chef with 40 years of experience, the establishment focuses on the delicate, clear-broth style of Kansai Oden, complemented by creative appetizers and an extensive beverage menu featuring over 30 types of alcohol. The opening introduces a refined yet approachable Japanese dining concept to Hong Kong’s discerning food scene.
The Art of Kansai Oden: A 40-Year Pursuit
The core offering at Kuke Shokudo is its distinctive Kansai-style Oden, fundamentally different from the richer, darker Kanto version. Chef Eto San, who has resided in Hong Kong for 23 years, meticulously crafts the broth (dashi) daily, using minimal seasoning—relying on high-quality kombu (kelp), salt, and light soy sauce. This preparation ensures the broth remains crystal clear while accumulating deep umami flavor.
In a remarkable nod to Japanese culinary tradition, Chef Eto employs a method similar to preserving eel sauces in historic unagi restaurants: the foundational broth is continuously refreshed with newly prepared dashi, allowing the liquid to become progressively more complex and flavorful over time as it absorbs the essence of the submerged ingredients. The menu features roughly 20 Oden items, including staples like thick-cut Japanese daikon ($38 HKD) and creative proprietary additions, with new seasonal specials introduced regularly.
Signature Delicacies and Exceptional Offerings
One standout item gaining serious attention is the whole Awaji Island Onion ($68 HKD), renowned in Japan for its exceptional sweetness. After being simmered in the dashi for three days, it is served with dried bonito flakes and three secret sauces, maximizing its natural sugary flavor. Other essential Oden offerings include tender Secret Recipe Beef Tendon Skewers ($45 HKD), seasonal favorites like abalone and tiger prawn ($78 HKD), and house-made specialties such as lotus root cakes ($58 HKD) and flying dragon head tofu ($30 HKD).
Beyond the Oden, Chef Eto’s menu offers innovative sake appetizers designed to pair perfectly with drinks:
- Octopus Carpaccio ($98 HKD): Lightly cooked octopus from Shikoku served with Japanese wasabi stems and Awaji Island onions for a refreshing start.
- Tako Wiener Sausage ($68 HKD): A playful, classic Izakaya snack popular in Kansai.
- Katsuo and Tai Shiokara Cheese ($88 HKD): Cheese fermented with bonito and sea bream, offering an intense flavor ideal for alcohol pairing.
The Innovative Dashi-Wari Cocktail
Kuke Shokudo also bridges tradition with contemporary trends by offering a highly novel drink: the Dashi-wari cocktail ($68 HKD). This popular new trend in Japanese Izakayas involves mixing piping hot Oden broth (dashi) directly into Japanese shochu (distilled spirit). The warmth of the dashi softens the alcohol while the umami from the clear bonito and kombu accentuates the depth of flavor, creating a deeply savory and warming cocktail highly sought after by younger diners.
For those seeking non-alcoholic options or a hearty end to the meal, Chef Eto also prepares about 10 varieties of handmade rice balls (onigiri) (starting at $35 HKD). Creative fillings include egg yolk pickles and spicy fermented miso.
A Passion for Cuisine and Community
Chef Eto San’s roots in Japanese gastronomy run deep, beginning his training at age 18 in Shiga Prefecture before spending more than 20 years honing his craft across Kyoto, Fukuoka, and Miyazaki. His extensive experience includes introducing Kansai-style grilled eel to Hong Kong diners.
The chef’s motivation remains profoundly personal. Though specializing in Japanese cuisine, he considers Hong Kong his home after 23 years, with a fondness for local Cantonese dishes. “Seeing the joy and happiness on customers’ faces when they savor my cooking gives me immense satisfaction,” says Chef Eto. This dedication to authentic, comforting food is the spirit driving Kuke Shokudo.
Kuke Shokudo (玖鉞食堂) is located at Shop G/F, 9 Gough Street, Central. It operates Tuesday to Sunday from 12:00 PM to 3:00 PM and 6:00 PM to 10:00 PM (Closed Mondays). Reservations can be made by calling 9848 2348.