A Central venue, Roucou, invites diners to explore a global cheese flight—from France’s triple‑cream Brillat‑Savarin to Japan’s caramelised brown cheese—paired with chef‑crafted dishes.
Hong Kong’s dining scene has seen its share of omakase experiences, but Roucou, a bar and cheese omakase concept tucked away on Aberdeen Street in Central, offers something genuinely novel. Since opening, the venue has drawn cheese enthusiasts and curious gourmands alike, guided by cheese expert Jeremy Evrard. He leads guests through a tasting of ten distinct cheeses sourced from France and Japan, each reimagined in a small plate that marries European cheesemaking traditions with Japanese culinary precision. The result is a progressive meal that educates as much as it delights—a rare opportunity to taste everything from a three‑week‑old Brillat‑Savarin, often called “the foie gras of cheese,” to a Japanese brown cheese that turns dessert into an unexpected finale.
A Global Tour in a Single Sitting
With over 1,800 recognised cheese varieties worldwide, the sheer diversity can overwhelm even seasoned food lovers. Roucou’s approach strips away that intimidation. Instead of a static cheese board, guests receive a sequence of dishes, each designed to highlight a specific cheese’s texture, age, and origin. Evrard, a specialist with deep knowledge of French affineur traditions, personally explains each selection.
The tasting opens with Brillat‑Savarin, a triple‑cream cheese from Normandy. Two ages are presented: a fresh three‑week version, creamy and mild, served with caviar pressed between roasted seaweed; and a three‑month‑aged variant, saltier and more intense, layered over a bed of crab, diced mango, and papaya. The contrast demonstrates how time transforms a single cheese.
From Goat’s Milk to Blue Veins
Chabichou, a goat’s milk cheese from Poitiers with AOP status, follows. Its wrinkled rind and soft, tangy interior are paired with kelp‑cured sea bream sashimi and citrus soy sauce—a fusion that highlights the cheese’s delicate sweetness. Diners learn that this cheese predates the 16th century and was praised by writer François Rabelais as “the best cheese in France.”
Parmigiano Reggiano, hailed as the “king of cheeses,” appears as a crisp tuile atop a stack of sweet asparagus, herring purée, and lemon zest. Its 22‑ to 24‑month ageing gives it a granular, nutty character that balances the fresh vegetables. Evrard notes that authentic Parmigiano Reggiano is never sliced but broken with a special knife to preserve its crystalline structure.
Camembert—the classic French soft‑ripened cheese—is served in a decadent pairing: thick slices of fatty tuna belly layered with the cheese, wrapped in nori. The heat of the tuna slightly softens the cheese, creating a luxurious, melt‑in‑the‑mouth bite.
Salat and Beaufort D’Alpage represent semi‑hard and hard styles. Salat, made from milk of cows that only let down their milk when calves are present, is presented as a crisp wafer accompanied by a concentrated bonito and kelp broth. Beaufort, from the French Alps, is paired with a halibut ball topped with sea urchin and a shellfish bisque.
Crayeux de Roncq, a washed‑rind cheese from northern France, is characterised by its vivid orange rind, washed with beer and brine during a seven‑week maturation. Its chalky centre yields a creamy, slightly boozy finish, served alongside binchotan‑grilled Omi beef.
Roquefort “Le Vieux Berger”, a classic blue cheese made from sheep’s milk and aged in natural caves, is spread on sourdough to soften its assertive, salty, and peppery notes.
The journey ends with Japanese Brown Cheese, a sweet, caramelised creation that tops a dark chocolate and hazelnut dessert. It signals a creative departure, blending European technique with Japanese invention.
Practical Takeaways for Cheese Lovers
For readers inspired to explore further, here are key facts from the experience:
- AOP certification guarantees geographical and production authenticity for cheeses like Chabichou and Beaufort.
- Ageing alters flavour dramatically: a three‑week Brillat‑Savarin is mild and creamy; a three‑month version is bold and salty.
- Storage matters: keep soft cheeses refrigerated in wax paper, not plastic, to allow them to breathe.
- Pairing tips: goat’s milk cheeses work well with citrus and seafood; aged hard cheeses complement roasted vegetables and lean meats.
Roucou is open Tuesday to Saturday evenings, with a full reservation recommended. The location—a short walk from Sheung Wan MTR station—makes it accessible for after‑work tastings or weekend indulgences.
The Bigger Picture
As Hong Kong’s food scene evolves, concepts like Roucou signal a broader appetite for hyper‑specialised, educational dining. Cheese omakase transforms what might be a static purchasing decision—which cheese to buy?—into a dynamic, narrative‑driven meal. It also shines a spotlight on lesser‑known French regional cheeses and Japan’s emerging dairy craftsmanship. For the cheese lover—or the curious newcomer—Roucou offers a rare chance to taste, learn, and savour in equal measure.