Hong Kong’s Iconic ‘Tin Shack’ Teahouse to Close After 65 Years as Fans Rush to Preserve Dying Tradition

The last corrugated-iron teahouse in Hong Kong, New Dragon City, will serve its final dim sum in April 2026, marking the end of an era for a cherished piece of local heritage.

For 65 years, New Dragon City Teahouse has stood as a weathered but beloved fixture in Ngau Chi Wan Village, its corrugated-iron walls holding decades of laughter, conversation, and the clatter of bamboo steamers. Now, this rare surviving example of a tin-shed teahouse — a once-common sight across Hong Kong — is preparing to close its doors forever. The announcement, made in March 2026, cited government-mandated redevelopment as the reason for the imminent shutdown. Patrons, many of whom have been regulars for generations, have been flooding in to savor what may be their last taste of a vanishing way of life.

The loss of New Dragon City represents more than just the closing of a restaurant. It signals the steady erosion of Hong Kong’s culinary and cultural landscape, where traditional pushcart dim sum, handcrafted snacks, and the unhurried rhythm of “yum cha” are becoming increasingly rare. Yet, amid the nostalgia and grief, a resilient community of food lovers is rallying to support the remaining bastions of this dying tradition.

A Last Chance to Experience History

New Dragon City is one of the last teahouses in Hong Kong to operate from a tin-shed structure, a building style that once defined the city’s informal neighborhoods. Its unpretentious facade and humble interior have become a pilgrimage site for those seeking authenticity. The teahouse will cease evening service on March 31, 2026, with morning and lunch service continuing until April 30, 2026.

What makes New Dragon City irreplaceable is its commitment to fully handmade dim sum. Starting at 6:00 AM daily, the kitchen produces traditional favorites rarely found elsewhere: classic glutinous rice buns, shark’s fin dumplings, spare ribs, and siu mai — all shaped by hand with practiced precision. The teahouse also remains one of the few places where patrons are welcome to bring their caged birds, a nostalgic practice that fills the air with birdsong as diners enjoy their “one bowl, two pieces” — the quintessential Hong Kong tea experience.

15 Teahouses Keeping the Flame Alive

While New Dragon City’s closure marks a significant loss, Hong Kong still boasts a collection of establishments dedicated to preserving the old ways. Here is a curated selection of venues where the spirit of classic teahouse culture endures:

Lin Heung Tea House (Central & Tsim Sha Tsui) – Established in 1927, this nearly century-old institution still uses pre-war decor, tea cups for brewing, and dim sum pushcarts. Signature items include taro dumplings, crab roe siu mai, lotus seed buns, and the massive chicken buns.

Central Restaurant (Sham Shui Po) – Open since 1961, this Hakka-style restaurant retains its pushcart service and is famed for its sago pudding — a dessert so beloved that food critic Chua Lam featured it on his YouTube channel. Try the fish maw siu mai and traditional Hakka dishes like salt-baked chicken and taro duck.

Hoi Lin Tea House (Tsuen Wan) – A 30-year-old housing estate gem, this no-frills spot offers affordable dim sum from pushcarts in a nostalgic setting of round tables and wooden stools. Must-tries include char siu buns, Malay cake, and pork belly siu mai.

Old Fung Tea House (Multiple Locations) – With branches across Yuen Long, Tsuen Wan, Mong Kok, Tai Po, and Tseung Kwan O, this chain recreates the atmosphere of 1960s-70s Hong Kong. Their handmade dim sum, including thousand-layer cake and egg yolk lotus seed buns, are crowd favorites.

Lin Heung Kui (Mong Kok) – A sister brand of Lin Heung Tea House, this new outpost brings the pushcart experience to Kowloon. Seniors enjoy special tea discounts during early morning hours, and the must-order items include crab roe siu mai, shrimp dumplings, and lotus seed buns.

Kam Kong Restaurant (Mong Kok) – Reopened in August 2025 by descendants of the original founders, this historic establishment from the late Qing dynasty features celebrity chefs from top kitchens. Priced between $25 and $42, their handmade dim sum includes fresh pork liver siu mai and the rare “iced chicken egg ball.”

Choi Lung Tea House (Tai Mo Shan) – Perched on the mountainside in Chuen Lung Village, this remote teahouse operates on a self-service model: diners find their own seats, brew their own tea, and retrieve steaming baskets from the kitchen. The signature rice noodle rolls are made fresh to order.

Tuen Kee Tea House (Tai Mo Shan) – A 50-year-old institution in the same village, also fully self-service. The mountain spring tofu pudding and freshly blanched vegetables are highlights, along with traditional pork siu mai and quail egg siu mai.

Luk Yu Tea House (Central) – Since 1933, this 93-year-old icon has maintained its original rosewood furniture and calligraphy, transporting guests to the 1930s. It serves rare dim sum like pork liver siu mai and fire duck rolls, alongside refined Cantonese dishes such as almond soup and smoked pigeon.

London Restaurant (Mong Kok) – This 47-year-old landmark uses a fleet of pushcarts categorized by steamer baskets, pan-fried items, and fried goods. Signature offerings include quail egg siu mai, duck feet, and the prized coconut custard with bird’s nest.

Lung Chu Restaurant (Multiple Locations) – A new brand by the Tao Heung group, its outlets feature ornate dragon-and-phoenix wedding halls and vintage neon signs. Dim sum highlights include peony pastries, taro puffs, and egg flower jelly.

Pot Master (Tin Shui Wai) – Despite its name, this neighborhood spot is a haven for dim sum lovers, with handmade items starting at just $14. Their pushcarts offer classics like siu mai and har gow, plus traditional favorites like roast pork buns and mixed bean cake.

Shing Hing Tea Room (Peng Chau) – A 60-year-old island institution, this remote teahouse still makes dim sum by hand daily. The quail egg siu mai and chicken rolls are local legends, and the simple setting offers a glimpse of old fishing village life.

Maxim’s Palace (Central) – Situated in the City Hall with a 180-degree view of Victoria Harbour, this 1979-origin restaurant retains its pushcart service. The “three treasures” — shrimp dumplings, crab roe siu mai, and char siu buns — are perennial favorites, along with crispy fried milk.

A Call to Action

As Hong Kong continues to modernize, the closing of New Dragon City serves as a poignant reminder that cultural heritage is fragile and finite. For those who have yet to experience the warmth of a tin-shed teahouse or the joy of flagging down a pushcart for a hot bamboo steamer, time is running out. Visit these remaining establishments while you still can. Gather your family and friends, order a pot of tea, and savor a tradition that has defined Hong Kong’s soul for generations.

The loss of one landmark does not have to mean the end of the tradition — but only if we choose to keep the pushcarts rolling.

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