A cheese counter isn’t the first place you’d expect to find a tasting menu, but that’s exactly what Hong Kong’s Roucou serves. Helmed by cheesemonger Jeremy Evrard, the intimate restaurant recently guided guests through a nine-course cheese journey stretching from the fields of Normandy to the high pastures of the Alps—and even across the sea to Japan.
A World of Over 1,800 Wheels
With more than 1,800 varieties of cheese on the planet, Roucou’s menu challenges the notion that cheese is a post-meal afterthought. Evrard has selected nine distinct wheels, each with a unique story and a tailored accompaniment, turning every serving into a small work of art.
The Opening Act: Brillat-Savarin, Two Ways
The journey began with Brillat-Savarin, the triple-cream cheese often compared with foie gras. Its three-week-aged version was light, airy, and almost creamy, topped with a spoonful of caviar and tucked into a piece of grilled nori—a bold French-Japanese pairing. The three-month-aged version, in contrast, was saltier and more intense, served as an ethereal mousse with sweet crab and a whisper of sea-salt foam.
A Goat’s Triumph: Chabichou
Chabichou, a traditional goat’s milk cheese from France’s Poitou region, carried the next course. Its wrinkled, slate-hued rind gives way to a dense, spreadable center. Here, Evrard surprised the palate by partnering it with kelp-cured sea bream in a vibrant citrus-soy dressing. The sweetness of the goat’s milk and the umami-rich fish create a startlingly balanced bite.
Classic Crèmes: Camembert and Roquefort
The Camembert, hailing from Normandy, was served soft and dripping, its buttery interior wrapped around a savory garnish. Then came the Roquefort—blue, salty, and assertive. Spread generously over tangy sourdough, it was a masterclass in taming intensity.
An Alpine Interlude
Next up was Beaufort d’Alpage, a firm alpine cheese forged from summer mountain grass. It arrived alongside slices of Binchotan-grilled Omi wagyu, with a velvety potato purée on the side. The combination of nutty, herb-flecked cheese and rich beef turned a meal into a symphony.
The Sweet Finale
The dénouement came in the form of a boundary-pushing dessert. A 55% Ecuadorian dark chocolate and hazelnut cake was given a generous crown of—what else?—cheese. The crumbled aged cheese brought a sharp saltiness to the dark chocolate, leaving diners with a profound appreciation for the cheese course’s new frontier.
Cheese Lover’s Checklist
- Allow cheese to come to room temperature before serving for full flavor.
- Don’t be afraid to use umami-rich ingredients (like nori or soy) to complement Western cheese.
- When in doubt, break rather than slice Parmigiano Reggiano, a technique that preserves its crystalline texture.
- Try pairing sweet dessert wines with salty blues, or rich hot chocolate with aged hard cheese.
A Lesson in Flavor Dynamics
In a city that loves its omakase, Roucou proves that cheese deserves the same degree of reverence as sushi. By weaving French tradition with Japanese finesse, Evrard has crafted an experience that is as educational as it is indulgent. For serious turophiles or curious newcomers, securing a seat here might be the best move you make all year.