The acclaimed Japanese eel restaurant, Unagi 4th Kikukawa (うなぎ四代目菊川), a Michelin-recognized brand originating from a seasoned 90-year-old eel wholesaler in Japan, has substantially expanded its presence in Hong Kong with the opening of its second branch in Tsim Sha Tsui. Following the successful launch of its debut location in Causeway Bay last year, the new K11 Musea outlet distinguishes itself by incorporating panoramic Victoria Harbour views and introducing Bar YON, a dedicated cocktail bar offering drinks specifically designed to complement the delicate flavours of eel cuisine.
Founded in 1932 (Showa 7), Unagi 4th Kikukawa leverages its deep roots in the wholesale business to ensure supreme quality, sourcing only the fattest, seasonally prime eels. This commitment to ingredient excellence earned the Nagoya main branch inclusion in the Michelin Plate section of the 2019 Aichi-Gifu-Mie Special Edition guide. Domestically, the brand operates 20 locations, with nine international franchises spanning Taiwan and South Korea, underscoring its growing regional influence.
Tsim Sha Tsui Location Elevates Dining Experience
The launch of the second Hong Kong branch at K11 Musea signifies the brand’s confidence in the city’s sophisticated dining scene. This expansive new venue is designed to enhance the traditional unagi dining ritual.
Key features of the Tsim Sha Tsui outlet include:
- Exceptional Location: Situated to offer stunning, unobstructed views of Victoria Harbour, providing an enhanced atmosphere for patrons.
- Bar YON: A newly established, purpose-built bar helmed by Masahiko Endo, the champion of the 2008 Suntory The Cocktail Award. Bar YON offers bespoke cocktails expertly curated to pair with the rich, umami flavour profiles of charcoal-grilled eel.
- Exclusive Private Dining: The restaurant is equipped with two private dining rooms suitable for business entertaining or significant family gatherings.
The founder and fourth-generation eel wholesaler, Yohei Kikukawa, relocated to Hong Kong to personally oversee the operations and maintain the brand’s stringent quality standards, ensuring consistency between its Japanese and Hong Kong outlets.
Signature Delicacy: Ippon Unagi
The cornerstone of the restaurant’s menu remains the Ippon Unagi, or “Whole Eel,” a preparation method distinct from many other Japanese unagi traditions. Instead of steaming the eel before grilling, Unagi 4th Kikukawa’s chefs strictly adhere to the kaba-yaki style, grilling the entire, thick eel directly over charcoal without prior steaming.
The preparation process is meticulous:
- Selection and Handling: Eels are specifically selected by the brand’s wholesalers for their size and superior fat content. Maintaining freshness is paramount, with eels being processed alive upon order placement. They are transported in specialized facilities using well water to eliminate any muddy flavour before being dispatched live to Hong Kong.
- Charcoal Grilling: Artisans use proprietary binchōtan (white charcoal) to grill the eel quickly and at an extremely high temperature. This ensures a remarkably crispy exterior while the interior remains tender, allowing the natural eel oils to melt beautifully.
- Sauce Application: The eel is basted with a secret sauce, continuously enriched since the restaurant’s founding, applied in a traditional three-up, three-down motion.
This method delivers a robust, smoky flavour, resulting in a thick, succulent piece of eel that does not shrink during cooking.
Customers can enjoy the Ippon Unagi served in specially commissioned ceramic ware. These “Shigaraki-yaki” bowls, hailing from one of Japan’s ancient kilns, are designed to retain heat and perfectly cradle the whole eel, featuring clever corner notches for easy eating with a specialized spoon.
Traditional and Diversified Offerings
Beyond the signature whole eel, the restaurant offers the traditional Unagi Hitsumabushi (Eel Three Ways), a Nagoya specialty. This dish provides a progressive tasting experience: first, tasting the eel plain; second, mixing it with condiments such as seaweed, scallions, wasabi, and sansho powder; and finally, pouring dashi broth over the mixture to create a delicate ochazuke (tea-soaked rice).
The menu extends to various eel-based appetizers, including Fried Eel Liver, Crispy Eel Bone Crackers, Sweet and Sour Eel with Cucumber (HK$98), and Eel Rolled Omelette (Tamagoyaki, HK$118). Diners seeking a comprehensive experience can choose from two set Kaiseki menus: the Hinagiku (HK$595) or the Yuri (HK$790), both featuring curated selections from sashimi and tempura to shirayaki (plain grilled) and kabayaki preparations.
With its second location, Unagi 4th Kikukawa reinforces Hong Kong’s position as a major culinary hub for premium Japanese imports, offering diners a high-quality, specialized experience combining masterful technique with exceptional waterfront views.
Unagi 4th Kikukawa Hong Kong Locations:
- Tsim Sha Tsui: Shop 219, Level 2, K11 Musea, 18 Salisbury Road
- Causeway Bay: L401A, Lee Garden One, 33 Hysan Avenue