Sun Lung Shing Tea House in Ngau Tau Kok, the city’s final surviving structure of its kind, will serve its last dim sum in April as redevelopment looms—prompting devoted patrons to flock for one final taste of old Hong Kong.
HONG KONG — For nearly seven decades, Sun Lung Shing Tea House has stood as a living relic of a bygone era. The weathered tin-sheet structure, tucked within the hillside squatter village of Ngau Tau Kok, is the last of its kind in Hong Kong—a traditional village teahouse that has outlived decades of urban change. But on April 30, 2026, this beloved establishment will pour its final cup of tea.
The announcement, made in mid-March, has sent ripples of nostalgia through the community. The teahouse is being cleared to make way for a government redevelopment project, a familiar fate for the city’s historic structures.
“It’s heartbreaking,” said regular patron Wong Ka-ling, 58, who has visited since childhood. “This place is not just a restaurant. It’s where my grandfather took me for my first sip of tea. The city is losing its soul, piece by piece.”
A Rare Glimpse of Old Hong Kong
Sun Lung Shing is celebrated for its rustic charm: stainless steel trolleys laden with bamboo steamers, worn wooden tables, and the distinctive corrugated iron roof that has become synonymous with the city’s postwar heritage. Patrons come not only for the food but for the atmosphere—a sensory time capsule of a slower-paced Hong Kong.
The teahouse’s closure marks yet another loss for fans of yum cha culture, particularly the iconic dim sum pushcarts that once dominated every tea house in the territory. As modern establishments shift to à la carte ordering, fewer than a handful of traditional venues remain.
15 Teahouses Preserving a Dying Tradition
In light of the closure, food enthusiasts have turned their attention to the city’s remaining old-school teahouses. A widely shared 2026 guide highlights 15 nostalgic dim-sum-cart restaurants still in operation, including:
- Central Restaurant (中央飯店), Sham Shui Po — A 64-year-old Hakka institution that has earned praise from legendary food critic Chiu Luen, who featured it on his YouTube channel. Known for its steamed sago pudding and old-fashioned dim sum carts.
- London Great Restaurant (倫敦大酒樓), Mong Kok — A 47-year-old establishment that still serves classics from steaming trolleys, including fried dumplings and steamed rice rolls.
- Tuen Kee Tea House (端記茶樓), Tai Mo Shan — Perched in the mountains, this rustic spot is famed for its freshly picked greens, silken tofu pudding made with mountain spring water, and nostalgic items like pork siu mai and lap cheong (Chinese sausage) rolls.
- Luk Yu Tea House (蓮香樓) — A century-old name with a Michelin Guide listing, preserving the traditional “one pot, two pieces” dining ritual.
- Hoi Lin Tea House (海連茶樓), Tsuen Wan — A three-decade-old public housing estate favourite.
Many of these venues also offer unique experiences such as self-service tea brewing and floor-to-ceiling windows with panoramic views of Victoria Harbour—proving that tradition and modernity can, at times, coexist.
A Bittersweet Future
The impending closure of Sun Lung Shing has reignited conversations about heritage conservation in Hong Kong. While redevelopment brings better housing and infrastructure, critics argue that the loss of such cultural anchors erodes the city’s identity.
For now, the teahouse’s loyal customers are making the most of the remaining weeks. Long queues now form outside its modest entrance every morning, as families, tourists, and young photographers rush to capture a piece of history before it disappears forever.
“It’s not about the food,” said one customer while waiting for a table. “It’s about the memories. And those are worth more than any skyscraper.”
As Hong Kong continues to evolve, one question remains: how many more of its cultural treasures will be sacrificed in the name of progress?