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In a groundbreaking move for fine dining in Hong Kong, Maison ES—an acclaimed French restaurant tucked away on Star Street in Wan Chai—has abandoned traditional set menus entirely, launching its first-ever full a la carte menu. Chef-owner Esther Sham and head chef Eric Cheung have crafted a daring lineup that marries classic French techniques with beloved Hong Kong street food, cha chaan teng staples, and nostalgic flavours, giving diners unprecedented freedom to choose their own culinary adventure.
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For years, enjoying upscale French cuisine in Central or Wan Chai often meant surrendering to rigid set menus, leaving little room for personal preference. Maison ES has shattered that convention. The restaurant’s complete shift to an a la carte format allows guests to order exactly what they crave, dish by dish—a rare luxury in the world of fine dining.
The mastermind behind this transformation is Esther Sham, a chef with an extraordinary pedigree. Sham honed her skills at a three-Michelin-starred restaurant before completing the Master-level Chinese Chef course at the Chinese Culinary Institute (CCI) in 2023. She made history as the first female graduate to earn dual master qualifications in both Chinese and Western cuisine, and was awarded the prestigious “Yeung Koon Yat Master Memorial Award.” Her 18-year journey began with her private kitchen, Ta Pantry, whose iconic recipes now anchor this new menu.
A Fusion of East and West in Every Bite
The menu is a playful dialogue between cultures. Four standout appetisers showcase this synergy:
- Artisan Bread Basket: Two handmade breads pay homage to Sham’s Ta Pantry legacy. A classic brioche recipe returns, alongside a crispy grissini reimagined from Hong Kong-style scallion oil bread, where roasted spring onions are kneaded into the dough for a fragrant crunch.
- Wagyu Katsu Sando: This dish elevates the cha chaan teng’s humble “salted beef egg sandwich.” Golden brioche is slathered with a house-made salted beef egg mayo, layered with American Wagyu short rib coated in panko and fried to a juicy medium-rare, then topped with a runny egg yolk that cascades over the crispy toast.
- Pan-Seared Local Squid: Inspired by the Cantonese classic “shrimp paste stir-fried squid,” fresh local “dau zai” squid is seared at high heat and served with an airy foam made from Tai O shrimp paste. A lobster-crab broth is poured tableside, fusing Hong Kong seafood soul with French consomme.
- Slow-Poached Hokkaido Scallop: This reimagining of “garlic vermicelli steamed scallop” uses a giant scallop, gently poached in olive oil, then torched for smoky notes. Accompanied by house-made scallion oil, preserved garlic buttermilk sauce, and glistening salmon roe, it offers layers of texture and umami.
Show-Stopping Sharing Dishes
For the main event, three heavyweight creations are designed for two to three people:
- American Wagyu Beef Wellington with Chu Hou Sauce: This signature dish reinterprets the Cantonese comfort food “radish and beef brisket stew.” A succulent American Wagyu shoulder is wrapped in golden puff pastry, layered with a savoury beef filling cooked with chu hou sauce and sweet cabbage—a bold twist on the classic Wellington.
- Steamed King Crab and Sea Urchin Risotto: Inspired by Hong Kong’s beloved “claypot rice,” this risotto is cooked in a traditional claypot. Fresh steamed crab meat and sea urchin are folded into the creamy rice, topped with a light soy-based foam (a nod to the sweet soy sauce drizzled on claypot rice) and crispy fried ginger. It’s comfort food elevated to haute cuisine.
- Roasted Spanish Suckling Pig with Honey Char Siu Sauce: The Segovia pig undergoes a three-stage roasting process—first at 200°C to crisp the skin, then twice at 190°C with repeated basting—resulting in glass-like crackling. A green apple puree infused with cinnamon and lemon cuts the richness, while the sauce cleverly blends char siu glaze with pure honey, evoking the spirit of Hong Kong’s barbecue stalls.
Dessert with a Local Twist
The meal concludes with a “Tea Zou” (Hong Kong-style milk tea with evaporated milk) crêpe soufflé. A rich tea-infused cream is folded into a soufflé batter, wrapped in a thin tea-flavoured crêpe, baked until puffed, and drizzled with sweetened condensed milk at the table. It’s a nostalgic cha chaan teng favourite transformed into a delicate French pastry.
Broader Impact and Next Steps
Maison ES’s bold transition signals a growing trend: high-end restaurants embracing flexibility and local identity to attract discerning diners who crave both quality and authenticity. For Hong Kong food lovers, this means more opportunities to enjoy world-class cuisine without sacrificing personal taste.
Where to Find It
- Address: 1A Star Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong (entrance on Electrical Street)
- Phone: +852 2521 8121
- Website: https://www.maison-es.com/
Whether you’re a longtime fan of Esther Sham’s work or a newcomer eager to explore, Maison ES offers an unforgettable journey through the best of both culinary worlds. For those inspired, consider pairing your visit with a walk through the vibrant Star Street neighbourhood, known for its eclectic boutiques and cafes.