If you have ever stood in a queue at a Cafe de Coral for a quick lunch, or grabbed a carton of Vitasoy from a convenience store, or debated with a friend over whether Fairwood serves a better chicken leg, you have unknowingly encountered the legacy of a single family. These three iconic pillars of Hong Kong’s food industry are not just fierce market rivals; they are the interconnected creations of three biological brothers from a single Hakka family. Their story—from a rural village in Guangdong to the heights of the corporate world—is a riveting saga of innovation, sibling competition, and the resilience to rise from the brink of collapse.
A Father’s Journey and a Tycoon’s Generosity
The patriarch of this dynasty was Lo Chin Hing, a Hakka man who left his village in Guangdong to work in Malaysia. While employed by the legendary Tiger Balm and Eu Yan Sang tycoon Eu Tong Sen, his hard work caught the attention of his wealthy employer. In a gesture that would fundamentally alter Hong Kong’s dining scene, Eu Tong Sen sponsored the university education of Lo’s seven sons at the University of Hong Kong. This act of generosity provided the family with the educational foundation that would eventually launch an empire.
The Soybean Pioneer (Vitasoy)
Lo Kwai Cheong, the eldest, was the first to make his mark. While on a business trip to Shanghai in 1936, he attended a lecture on the nutritional power of the soybean. Inspired, he returned to Hong Kong and founded the Hong Kong Soya Bean Products Company in 1940. His mission was to provide a cheap, healthy drink for a population suffering from malnutrition during the war. The result was Vitasoy, a beverage that would grow to become a household name across the globe, and the company served as the financial bedrock for the family’s future ventures.
Breaking the Mould (Cafe de Coral)
Lo Teng Cheung, the eighth brother, spent years working at the family’s soy business. In 1968, he broke away to start his own venture. He opened the first Cafe de Coral on Sugar Street in Causeway Bay. While the menu was simple, his real innovation was in service. Hong Kong was accustomed to traditional teahouses and table service. Cafe de Coral pioneered a self-service, tray-and-queue model. This “fast-casual” format was perfectly suited for a rapidly modernizing city filled with time-pressed office workers. It was a disruptive hit.
The Rival and the Near Collapse (Fairwood)
Lo Fong Cheung, the ninth brother, watched his sibling’s success and decided to follow suit. In 1972, he left Vitasoy to found Fairwood. A fierce sibling rivalry was born. For years, the two chains grew side-by-side, competing for customers. However, by the 1990s, Fairwood hit a severe crisis. The company lost touch with customer tastes, food quality declined, and its brand image suffered. This led to five consecutive years of financial losses, pushing the company dangerously close to bankruptcy.
The Phoenix Rises: A Rebranding Miracle
Fairwood’s recovery is a textbook case of corporate reinvention. In 2003, the company executed a massive overhaul. It completely redesigned its logo, modernized its restaurant interiors, and revitalized its menu. The gamble paid off spectacularly. Sales surged, and Fairwood successfully shed its outdated image to court a younger, more modern generation of diners.
A Bond Forged in Competition
Rumors of discord between the brothers were common, but Lo Teng Cheung himself addressed the rivalry with pride. He compared their competition to sports teams, each playing their hardest. He stated that his brother inherited “nothing but a brain and an attitude”—not corporate wealth. “The pride,” he once said, “is that we have three listed companies in one family.”
The Lo family legacy gives profound context to everyday meals in Hong Kong. It serves as a testament to the immigrant dream, the power of education, and the relentless drive that built the city. Next time you stop for a quick bite, you are tasting a piece of that history.