Amid a wave of shop closures and a growing exodus of consumers across the border to Shenzhen, a trio of iconic Yuen Long street food vendors—once forced to shut down—have reopened, offering residents a nostalgic taste of neighbourhood flavours and a reason to stay and spend locally. From a geriatric sushi hawker who once sold 2,000 pieces a day to a humble cheung fun stand rooted in Qing dynasty history, these three stalls represent the survival spirit of Hong Kong’s grassroots food scene.
A Battle for Local Patronage in Changing Times
Hong Kong has witnessed a steady rise in northbound spending as residents flock to Shenzhen for cheaper dining and shopping. Coupled with rising rents and shifting consumer habits, the city has seen a wave of small-business closures. Yet in Yuen Long, a district long celebrated for its street food culture, three beloved vendors have defied the odds, transitioning from illegal street carts (“walk ghost stalls”) to proper shops. Their stories highlight the challenges and tenacity of local entrepreneurs—and pose a question: will Hongkongers choose to support them?
Old Market Cheung Fun: A Qing Dynasty Legacy, Modern Prices
Built during the Kangxi reign of the Qing dynasty (1669), the Old Market in Yuen Long once housed a teahouse that served budget-friendly snacks. That teahouse—now relocated to a shop at 26 G/F, Ho Shun Yee Building, 9 Fung Yiu Street East, and renamed Old Market Cheung Fun—keeps prices remarkably low: HK$10 for seven pieces of cheung fun, HK$10 for eight fish balls, and HK$10 for seven siu mai. With a few seats for dine-in customers, the stall draws long queues daily; most items sell out by 5–6 p.m. Visitors are advised to schedule this stop early on their food crawl.
Long Ping Sushi Auntie: 30 Years of Fried Sushi and Late-Night Comfort
Now in her 70s, the eponymous “Auntie” at Long Ping Sushi Auntie began hawking from a wooden cart in Long Ping Estate, later moved to the now-defunct Yuen Long night market, and currently operates from a stall near Yuen Long Plaza (Man Yip House, G/F). Her signature deep-fried sushi rolls (HK$40 for 12 pieces) once peaked at 2,000 orders a day. Though foot traffic has waned, the stall remains a late-night staple, offering fried noodles (HK$50), assorted fried items (HK$15), and sizzling chicken wings (HK$30). Open daily from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m., it’s a reminder of how time and development can erode even the most popular hawker businesses.
Long Ping Fish Maw & Shark Fin Cart: A Rebirth After Complaints
Perhaps the most dramatic comeback story belongs to Long Ping Fish Maw & Shark Fin Cart, which started as a pushcart in Long Ping Estate before moving into a shop on Ma Wang Road. After neighbour complaints forced a temporary closure, it re-emerged at 188 G/F, On Ning Road. The star item is a generous bowl of fish maw and shredded shark fin soup (small HK$30, large HK$38), packed so full with fish paste that the lid barely closes. A spicy preserved radish topping adds a kick. The stall opens from 6 p.m. until sold out (closed Wednesdays), and recent queues lasted 90 minutes. Its popular cart noodles remain temporarily unavailable.
Why These Comebacks Matter
Each of these three stalls embodies a microcosm of Hong Kong’s food culture: ingenuity, affordability, and community loyalty. Their reopenings offer a blueprint for how small vendors can adapt—finding new locations, maintaining quality, and keeping prices accessible. Yet they also underscore the fragility of local dining in an era of cross-border competition and rising costs.
For readers planning a Yuen Long food crawl, map out a route that prioritises these newly revived classics before they sell out. Consider combining them with other local favourites like B Chilled Dessert or Wing Nin Cart Noodles. The broader takeaway: every bowl of fish maw and every piece of fried sushi purchased is a small vote for keeping Hong Kong’s street food heritage alive.
Useful Resources:
- For a comprehensive Yuen Long food guide, check our earlier posts on Michelin-listed street snacks and late-night eats.
- Download the U Lifestyle App for real-time updates on stall opening hours and special offers.