As a growing wave of Hongkongers crosses the border to Shenzhen for shopping and dining, and local businesses shutter at an alarming rate, a quiet resistance is simmering in Yuen Long. Three iconic street food vendors—once thought lost to redevelopment and complaints—have reopened, offering residents a reason to stay and spend. From a 70-year-old sushi vendor to a legendary fish maw stall, these small eateries embody the fight to preserve Hong Kong’s unique food culture.
The exodus of consumers northward has been well documented. According to Hong Kong government data, over 5.4 million Hongkongers visited Shenzhen in the first quarter of 2024 alone, a 30% increase year-on-year. Meanwhile, the city’s retail and dining sectors face a wave of closures, with hundreds of small businesses shutting down due to rising rents, labor shortages, and shifting consumer habits. But in Yuen Long, a district known for its grassroots food scene, three stalls have refused to disappear.
From a Wooden Cart to a Storefront: The Resilience of Yuen Long’s Street Food
Old Market Cheung Fun — A Taste of Qing Dynasty History
Tucked away in Yuen Long’s historic Old Market area—a neighborhood that dates back to 1669 during the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty—Old Market Cheung Fun (舊墟腸粉) began as a humble tea stall. After relocating to a shop on Fung Yau Street in the K Town area, the renamed eatery now serves some of the most affordable street snacks in the district. Customers can still buy seven pieces of silky rice noodle rolls for just HK$10, or eight fish balls for the same price. The new location even offers a few seats, a luxury previously unavailable. Owner Ms. Lee, who has run the stall for over two decades, told Lolleroll that supplies often sell out by 5 or 6 p.m., urging visitors to queue early. “We kept prices low because we want everyone to enjoy this taste of old Yuen Long,” she said.
Long Ping Sushi Auntie — 30 Years of Fried Sushi
At over 70 years old, the woman known simply as “Auntie” has become a Yuen Long institution. Long Ping Sushi Auntie (朗屏壽司阿姨) started from a wooden pushcart in Long Ping Estate, later moved to the now-defunct Yuen Long night bazaar, and finally settled in a stall near Yuen Long Plaza. Her specialty? Deep-fried sushi rolls—12 pieces for HK$40—which once sold 2,000 portions per day at peak. Now, business has slowed. “There aren’t as many customers as before,” Auntie admitted during a recent interview. Still, her fried noodles (HK$50), grilled chicken wing tips (HK$30), and assorted tempura (HK$15) continue to draw a loyal nightly crowd from 5 p.m. until 1 a.m.
Long Ping Fish Maw Cart Noodle — Worth a 90-Minute Wait
Perhaps the most dramatic comeback belongs to Long Ping Fish Maw Cart Noodle (朗屏魚肉翅車仔檔). Originally operating from a pushcart, the shop moved to a brick-and-mortar location on Ma Wang Road—only to be closed after complaints from neighbors. After a short hiatus, it reopened on On Ning Road, where customers regularly queue for up to 90 minutes. The signature fish maw soup (small HK$30, large HK$38) and fish ball soup (small HK$32, large HK$40) are famously generous with ingredients. One diner, 28-year-old local resident Ken Wong, described the experience: “The fish meat is piled so high the lid barely closes. You have to press it down. And the spicy preserved radish on top—it’s addictive.” Cart noodles, also a favorite, have yet to return to the menu.
A Broader Movement: Why Supporting Local Matters
These three stalls are more than just places to eat—they represent a last stand for Hong Kong’s street food culture. As real estate pressures mount and consumer habits shift, the survival of such small vendors depends on conscious local spending. “Every dollar spent here is a vote for the kind of city we want to live in,” said food critic and Yuen Long native Emily Tse, who has tracked the district’s food scene for over a decade.
For those planning a Yuen Long food crawl, start with Old Market Cheung Fun early in the day to beat the queues. Head to Long Ping Sushi Auntie for a late-night snack, and save Long Ping Fish Maw Cart Noodle for dinner—but bring patience. Alongside the famous B Chilled Dessert and Wing Nin Noodles, these three hidden gems offer a taste of what makes Hong Kong’s street food unforgettable.
Related reading: For more Yuen Long food guides, including Michelin-listed stalls and late-night supper spots, check out our comprehensive Yuen Long Eats Collection and Yuen Long Midnight Snack Guide.
This article is part of Lolleroll’s “Stay and Save” series, highlighting local businesses worth supporting in Hong Kong’s challenging retail landscape.