As an increasing number of Hong Kongers head north to Shenzhen for dining, and local businesses shutter at an alarming rate, a quiet counter-movement is brewing in Yuen Long. Three iconic street food vendors—Old Market Cheung Fun, Long Ping Sushi Auntie, and Long Ping Fish Maw Cart—have recently defied the odds by reopening after multiple closures, offering residents a compelling reason to stay and spend locally.
A Snapshot of the Crisis
The retail and dining landscape across Hong Kong has been marked by a wave of closures over the past year. Industry analysts attribute this trend to several factors: changing consumer habits, rising operational costs, and the pull of cross-border shopping in Shenzhen. For neighbourhoods like Yuen Long, these pressures hit particularly hard, erasing beloved landmarks and eroding community character.
Yet amid this sobering backdrop, three humble eateries have staged comebacks that speak volumes about local resilience—and the power of good food.
Old Market Cheung Fung: History on a Plate
Housed in the historic Yuen Long Old Market, which dates back to 1669 during the Qing Dynasty, Old Market Cheung Fung began as a humble tea stall. Though it has since relocated to Yuen Long’s Kai Tak area, the spirit—and the prices—remain stubbornly retro.
- $10 HKD for 7 pieces of cheung fun (rice rolls)
- $10 for 8 fish balls
- $10 for 7 siu mai
- $10 for 2 beef balls
The new location now offers a handful of dine-in seats, a luxury the original cart never had. But don’t get too comfortable: most items sell out by 5 or 6 PM. Food blogger and longtime customer Mabel Wong, 34, told our team, “You have to plan your visit around these guys. If you go late, you’ll only get regret.”
Long Ping Sushi Auntie: A Living Legend
Few street food stories are as personal as that of the Long Ping Sushi Auntie, a septuagenarian vendor who has been serving Hong Kongers for over three decades. Her journey began with a wooden cart in the Long Ping Estate before moving to the now-defunct Yuen Long night market, and finally settling into a storefront near Yuen Long Plaza.
Her signature item: fried sushi (40 HKD for 12 pieces). At the peak, she sold 2,000 pieces daily. Though foot traffic has noticeably declined—the Auntie herself admits business is “nothing like before”—the menu remains robust. Popular offerings include fried noodles (50 HKD), a variety of fried items (15 HKD each), and grilled chicken wings (30 HKD).
Open daily from 5 PM to 1 AM, this spot is the last bastion of the old night market’s soul.
Long Ping Fish Maw Cart: The 90-Minute Queue
If you’re looking for proof that good food still commands loyalty, Long Ping Fish Maw Cart provides it in the form of a very long line. This vendor, which also graduated from the street-cart era into a proper shop, specializes in:
- Small fish maw soup (30 HKD) / Large (38 HKD)
- Fish broth (32 HKD / 40 HKD)
- Combined fish maw soup (32 HKD / 40 HKD)
Our reporter queued for 90 minutes on a weekday afternoon. The food justifies the wait. The fish maw soup arrives overflowing with fresh ingredients—so packed that the lid barely closes. A house-made spicy preserved radish (lap cheung) adds the final kick. The owner noted that the cart’s popular noodle dish has not yet returned, pending kitchen adjustments.
This stall had previously operated on Ma Wang Road before complaints forced a brief hiatus. It reopened on Ning On Road, operating from 6 PM until sold out, with Wednesdays off.
Why This Matters Now
The rebirth of these three stalls is more than a feel-good food story. It represents a grassroots refusal to let local culinary heritage disappear. As Shenzhen offers cheaper options and more novelty, Hong Kong’s outlying districts like Yuen Long are fighting back with nostalgia, authenticity, and unbeatable value.
For residents looking to support local businesses, a visit to these three stalls offers a tangible way to vote with their wallets. The broader message is clear: every purchase at a stall like these helps preserve the fabric of Hong Kong’s neighbourhoods.
Planning Your Yuen Long Food Trail
For those assembling a street food itinerary, start with Old Market Cheung Fung early in the day, then hit Fish Maw Cart in the evening, and cap it off with Sushi Auntie for late-night cravings. Along the way, consider stops at long-standing favourites like B Chai Liang Fen or Wing Nin Che Noodles.
Related resources: For more comprehensive guides, explore the Yuen Long Food Collection and Yuen Long Late-Night Eats Collection—both available through local food networks.